Saturday, August 9, 2014

TO MIDDLEBURG AND ON



Trees, Nel. Vara, Riek, Wilma, Hanny getting ready to ride

Along the Coes Canal





TO MIDDLEBURG AND ON
A grey sky settled overhead as we sailed on our way to Middleburg.  Although there is no rain, a brisk wind from the sea on the Keeten Mastgat and the Schelde swirled around us like a tangled cloak.  It stung  my face and blew my hair into my eyes.  Although most of my Dutch companions were dressed in short sleeves or an added light sweater, I wore my silk undershirt, a blouse and a sweatshirt and was still not quite as toasty as I would have liked to have been.  





After going through two locks and passing numerous (mostly) sailboat marinas we finally entered a canal.  Here the wind gave way to just a general chill and we soon arrived in Middleburg.  It is a larger town than we had previously visited, situated in the middle of a peninsula that juts into the sea. There are ten states in the Netherlands and Middleburg is the capital of the state of Zeeland.  





The history is depicted not only in the local museum, but also in the great mansions built from the vast fortunes made during its speckled past, much like our own.  For the ancestors of these homeowners made their great wealth from the triangular slave trade to the Americas during the 16th to18th centuries.  

In the market
The Middleburg Museum has a presentation of the 80 Years War, with a curious display of world renowned tapestries depicting sea battles of the time.  There is also a video display of local costumes, as well as modern clothing designs,  all of which are enhanced with an additional display of local artifacts. 
In the market


street of signs


Now used for civic events - currently modern art show

Some Middleburg roof lines











I did not find Middleburg as interesting a town as the last two we visited, but I did get a copy of the English language newspaper, the guardian (The world news is certainly depressing - no matter what your situation, it’s got to be better than much of the worlds’ population).   Also in Middleburg, I ate some very spicy pumpkin soup, which tickled my tastebuds and warmed me up nicely.  
         ON TO GOES
This morning we are off to Goes (pronounced something like Cush).  We are returning through the canal we traversed yesterday, then going out into the Meer River and on into a canal not shown on the map that goes to Goes.  Although there is no wind, today the weather is cold for me.  But again we have not yet entered the Meer. Once in the Meer, there is wind but unlike yesterday, the sun has come out and we are warmed up nicely.  Some of my travel mates are even in their Bermuda shorts sun bathing on the deck. 
Goes Canal










A word about dogs: If you have not been to Europe, or have not noticed during your visits to the continent, Europeans take their dogs everywhere - There was even a dog water bowl inside the restaurant where I had my soup. - I often speak to and pet many of the dogs I see.  Young men traveling around Europe with their backpacks often travel with their dog as well.  I also met a man and his wife who were visiting Middleburg from the most eastern part of Germany traveling by car with his ginger coloured Lab.  It seems many people prefer Golden Labradors.  But these dogs, although called ‘golden’, have really lovely white coats and are just as 
Two dogs being friendly while waiting in a lock

Another happy fellow waitng in the lock








friendly as their American counterparts.   The Dutch even take their dogs on their boats both sail and power. Dog lovers know that dogs are ‘people animals’ and that their dogs don’t care where they go/are as long as they are with their humans.  I know in my area of Florida we are seeing more and more dogs out and about inside stores,etc. with their owners, but most of these are small dogs, whereas Europeans are mainly traveling around with much larger, big, fluffy dogs, A Note: If you are a reader who is unfamiliar with dealing with strange dogs, To begin, you must first ask the owner if you may pet their dog. If yes, then let the dog sniff your hand before patting and/or scratching him/her behind the ears, etc.

Scenic Ruby

Their is much interesting boat traffic today, besides the standard sailboats seen throughout the area.  There is everything from a commercial dive-work boat, to a small cruise ship named SENIC RUBY, for handicapped passengers.  The SENIC RUBY is just under 50 meters long by about 11 meters wide, and carries as many as 148 handicapped passengers.  Other than the crew, all of the staff are volunteers.  It is supported by the government national health insurance service and private donations. Wow! what a concept.  





We are again in the broad river and surrounded by all manner of sailboats, two or three are even sailing ‘wing and wing’ which means they are probably sailing down wind and have a following sea. This sailing atmosphere has made me yearn for another sailboat, but docked in the warmer climes of the Caribbean (How does that sound to you, Jane?).


wing and wing

another beauty




The sun is finally out and we have just left another lock. I am amazed at the number of boats that want to go through the lock besides us.  They are rafted to each other all across this wide and very deep lock.  Once all the boats are secured, then the Lock-master raises or lowers the water in the lock to make it level with the next body of water our boat is entering.  In this lock the water was raised at least eight to ten feet before the lock gates were opened and we moved on into the canal that will take us to Goes.



Boats rafted together behind us in a lock

More boats waiting in the lock






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Traditional Dutch boat

Friday, August 8, 2014



Map of part of the Ahoy's Itinary

TO GORINCHEM AND ON
 The bicycle riders were off as soon as breakfast was over to ride the 30 Kilometres to our next port, Gorinchem. The ship left on it’s 9:AM schedule as we headed through two bridges, one a swing bridge, the other a lift. Along the road that bordered the houses on one side and the canal on the other, we saw a man in a two seater horse drawn carriage trotting his two horses along at a steady clip. 





Rows of trees bordered the canal and sometimes there were tall reeds of different types.  Wide bicycle paths run along both sides of all the canals and there were numerous cyclists along our route. 

Windmills are all along our route
Gorinchem is another charming old town, larger than Vianen with a large square full of cafes for drinks, food and ice-cream.  There is also a museum.  The current shows were: Unusual Modern Jewellery Designs (sorry I didn’t take pictures. I thought they were all extremely ugly.), the history of the city, and also an historic moment in the late 1500s, over 500 years ago. Earlier in the country’s history,Philip II of Spain, had seized the Country of Holland (now known as the Netherlands) as one of his colonies, and tried to impose Catholicism on the Dutch population.  But in 1572, the citizens of Northern Holland rebelled against King Philip and his religion.  During the rebellion, 19 Roman Catholic priests and any fervent believers among the local population who had converted to Catholicism were captured, tortured then killed by the local populace.  Today, in modern Holland one finds that there are more Catholics living in the south of Netherlands than in the north.  Probably because of the influence of this and other uprisings in Northern Holland that eventually drove Philip II of Spain, and his minions from their land. ( Some of this information was translated from a museum brochure by Corry, a fellow passenger.)

Cyclists meeting us at Gorinchen

One thing I found quite interesting is that a number of the bicycles, the ladies on the boat ride, are electric.  They can be ridden at speeds of as much as 30 to 35 Kilometres and hour. Riek, a hardy 81 year old, traveling with her friend Wilma, told me, “Oh! no, I don’t go those speeds, I only go 20 to 25 kilometres an hour. I have traveled as much as 100 kilometres, I swim two days a week, play tennis two days a week, garden and clean my own house.  I am very fortunate.” 

 I am highly  impressed by Reik’s stamina and vigor, and hope that I too can travel at those speeds on a bike, swim and play tennis when I reach 81 years of age.  She also told me, she will be 82 on October 4th, which is Animal Day in Holland, “A good day for animals.” Riek said.



Museum entrance on the square

A grass roofed house along the way - very expensive to insure


Upon tying up at the dock in Gorinchem, we found that one of the little ladies who rode an electric bike had caught the tire of her bike in a rut and had toppled over down the side of the bike path. She hurt her leg and damaged her hand and arm. The ambulance had arrived and taken her to the hospital before the boat had docked.  After dinner a couple of the other lady passengers went over to the hospital to check out her condition.  I was told she had internal bleeding in her chest and had to stay in the hospital for at least two days.  It was about three days later, that she hired a taxi and was back on the cruise.  She arrived with a great bandage on her leg and an enormous cast on up her arm which covered her whole arm from the elbow down and her hand.  And what did she brake to require such a big cast - her pinky finger.  Of course the bicycling part of the cruise was over for her, but she was out walking  about the towns enjoying the sites with the rest of us.  

.
2ND FULL DAY
Today we are on our way to Zierkzee via Bruinisse.  We were suppose to leave at 7 AM, stop at Bruinisse at 11:30 for two and a half hours, then go on. Unfortunately, it is raining heavily. There is thunder in the distance,  and the rain streams down the sides of the main cabin’s glass windows. Outside big drops hurl down on the canopied covered deck keeping most of my fellow passengers(except the smokers) in the main cabin. We are unable to leave port until 9: AM.  Instead of bikers off on their rides, we have most of the 17 of us in the main dining room chatting, reading, doing puzzles, and a small group delighting us with their melodious voices singing in English, Cockles and Mussels, Michael Row Your Boat Ashore, and then singing some really lovely Dutch songs, (to which almost everyone joins in singing ). 

Hanging out in the main cabin

Our120 foot boat is dwarfed by enormous barges (or tankers carrying gasoline) that pass us, some three or four times our length. Outside the land is verdant from the rain.  A weather report informs us of extreme flooding in Amsterdam a city built below sea level, and of the road closings there and throughout other parts of the country. Holland is saturated.  It sounds much like the weather we experienced at home in south Florida in surrounding communities this spring..  We cruise along in a more misty rain passing through bridges and into the Krammer Volkarat (a rather wide river) as if nothing has happened. Yet, those individuals who find road closings in and around Amsterdam know better.

Although everyone is lovely, probably because I live alone, I am finding it hard to be confined daily on a boat with so many individuals.  I crave some quiet solitude, which I could certainly enjoy in my cabin, but then I would miss seeing the scenery.  So I tough it out, and when we finally reach Ziekerzee, I am the first to disembark. I find it odd that in this group of people surrounded by water, many of my companions do not like fish. I plan to miss dinner, as I am going out on the town to eat FISH.
My Bass fish dinner - the white oblong in the front is also sea food but I don't know what it is??? 

Magen, and old Golden Lab taking her walk wearing her boots






I also have some very definite errands, post cards to mail, finding an English language newspaper, and hopefully the Internet.  Thus, when I got off the boat, I immediately ask the first local I see, a nice young man, Foris, who happened to be working in the ice cream shop next to the pier.  He was full of all kinds of knowledge, the location of the newsstand, the tourist office for stamps across from the his shop. Best of all, the ice cream stand shared their Internet with me at no charge, in gratitude I bought a carmel ice cream sundae with nuts and went merrily on my way.  

The town of Ziekerzee is just one big photo opportunity, the cameraman's dream.  It has every Dutch architectural style and cliche one could ever want, masses of interesting boats, and again, interesting people.














in town lift bridge - extended part at the top, a weight

  Speaking of boats, the harbor is full of all types of  boats - old and new, yachts and monstrous fishing vessels. Ziekerzee  was first settled sometime during the 17th and 18th centuries.  It’s extensive harbor is protected by great solid sea gates and a long man-made canal that runs from the river to the gates.  The canal is lined with a revetment of stones and/or grass on the lower level, with an upper border of cement, a grassy edge and then a fence between the canal sides and the bike path above.  I doubt if the bike path is more then 10 feet above the canal, if that.  Ziekerzee, on an island, is one of those  typically irresistible tourist villages   - the Swarovski sign says it all - with shops and restaurants oriented to the visiting boat/yacht and land-lover tourist trade alike. It is full of lots of ice cream and fried fish Kiosks and restaurants, as well as a couple of really good places that serve fish, baked and broiled rather than fried.  Lovely. 




seeing right through to their outside garden

See little bear in the window 


Boat going through the town lock 




THE NEXT MORING

After unloading the bikers who will ride the 55 kilometres to our next port, we leave Ziekerzee, crossing Keetenon Mastgat (I understand Mastagat -translates to something like small body of water - check the map), and will be going through another small canal heading to Middlelburg.  


For those readers who are not boaters below are a few nautical terms:
FOR(forward) or BOW - the front of a boat.
AFT(afterward) or STERN - the back of a boat.
MAIN CABIN - sitting and/or dinning room.
CABIN - bedroom
BUNK - bed
HEAD - toilet
GALLEY - kitchen
PORT or PORTHOLE - window
Now you have the lingo, you can go on to become real sailors. Or you can go to AMAZON.COM and buy my novel DISPOSABLE ASSETS, where you can read about the main character’s number of sailing adventures.





Sunday, August 3, 2014

AHOY
I arrived at the the Ahoy Vakantie Vaaten, (translation: Ahoy, Bicycle Vacations), at about 9:30 PM, the evening before the cruise.  Captain Teun Hoelistra and his wife Margreet greeted me.  This charter boat has been run by this lovely, hard working couple for 48 years (this will be there last season). 




The Ahoy


(The Ahoy is a120 ft converted steamboat, built in 1914, at the Dir. H. De Ridder yard in Rotterdam. It is 5 meters 25 centimeters wide (do the math),  and has a draft of 1 meter 50 centimeters or about 5 feet.  It carries 1500 meters of diesel, 12000 meters of water, has two rows of solar panels on the upper deck and carries 44 passengers, although there are only 17 oldsters on our eight day cruise.  The Hoelistras used to cruise with 16 and 17 year old youngsters on bicycle tours which is a great idea. 


Some of the guests inside the main cabin

Others studying charts of our trip






 Because the boat will be for sale after their last September cruise, it would be a great idea for a USA travel agency to add this to their student tours for high schoolers (or adults cyclers) from the US and Canada to add to their itineraries.  A good bike tour leader would really make this a great trip for kids.  Captain Hoelistras is selling out because after 48 years, he is ready to retire. Their email address is:



During the first morning, I observed the sixteen other passengers arrive, fourteen women including me, and three men.  Except for two female teachers, all the other passengers are retirees.  Ten of the guests brought their bicycles, while the rest, like me, were on board just to enjoy the countryside, and our visits to the quaint Dutch villages along the way.  

Although most  of the cabins have four bunks, other than the couples, each individual traveler had their own cabin, which gives each of us a great amount of space.  

Breakfasts and lunches consist (with small additions daily) of an assortment of breads, cheeses and meats, with a large bowl of fruit added to our breakfast fare.

The first dinner consisted of roast pork, a slice for each (I am not a pork eater), a lovely endive, apple, raisin salad, buttered potatoes and one of my favorites, cooked spinach.  This was all topped off with a very light, delicious banana pudding; recipe below. 

A Dutch bridge and lock


a raised lock

video of a lock gate in action



The first day we left Utrecht at 1:30, and traveled on two canals, one the Amsterdam-Rijnkanaal passing through two locks.  Once we entered a lock and secured the boat to the inside cleats, the water was raised about a foot in each lock.

Vianen city gate over a small stream

Another building in the town - I think the town hall




  Our destination was Vianen, which was declared a city in 1335 A.D.  This small village community about 30 Kilometers from Utrecht is full of many charming, old fashion, very well maintained houses.  During a quiet after dinner walk with a companion passenger, we were amazed by the beauty and evening silence of Vianen, which appeared to us to be a bedroom community for the larger city of Utrecht.  


A large bardge we passed on our way





After my first day experiencing sailing on the Dutch canals, it was off to my bunk and a night of I hoped, deep sleep.  



Banana Pudding Recipe
(for sixteen)
2 bananas mashed 
1 liter of lemon yogurt
a pinch of citron 
a pinch of sugar 
and chill



.  





LONDON CONTINUED

The weather has been perfect for me, but unusually warm for the locals.  I have enjoyed walking all around London, the time I spend walking impedes on my actual activities, but the walks have been a real joy.  For those readers who have not been here, London is like a series of small villages that have grown up as a large attached city with lots of gardens. We all hear about Kensington Gardens, Hyde Park and Regent’s Park, but there are numerous smaller and very pleasant gardens throughout out the city.  Some are private to which one must have a key to enter, yet many are public venues that are used daily by Londoners and tourists alike.  At noon-time these parks are full of people sitting on the benches and on blankets on the grass lunching with their friends and co-workers. There are joggers, walkers many with dogs, skipping children, all manner of society enjoying this lovely very green city.

This visit, I was staying very near Covent Garden and the theatre district, so I enjoyed walking there. I also walked to Folye’s bookstore, advertised as the largest bookstore in the world. Folyes has recently moved to new ‘digs’ down the road from it’s old store, which was so full of books it had become a hodgepodge of confusion.  The help understood the system, but I don’t believe I have ever gotten above the third floor of its seven floors full of books.  The new Folyes is a mastery of organization, and I enjoyed being on every floor. I even bought a book for my new grandson, little Max, which he can take in the bath.  After all, books should be read everywhere.


Set for Matilda

Matilda
Matilda, the British theatre rendition of Roald Dahl’s children’s book is a smash hit still going strong after three years, with full houses every matinee and evening. I had wanted to see the Book of Mormons but it was no longer on, so I checked out Matilda. On the one day I could attend there were only four seats left.  Andy, a very charming ‘senior’ staffer, who shared this information with me, actually took me into the theatre and showed me my choices.  How could I resist; and what a charming play.  There were no really memorably hummable songs for me, but over all it is a wonderful play about a brilliant little bookworm who is discriminated against by her boorish family and her school principal for being bright.  

The cast is made up of mainly children, and each part has four different children cast, so different children play their specific part on different nights and matinees.  I was highly impressed by the incredible talent of all of the youngsters among the cast members I saw. The show is a smash and well it should be.  

I was also impressed by the audience. I was surrounded by children, an international group of children. The smalls next to me were from Argentina, on the other side of me were children from China, in front of me, the family was Japanese.  There were also lots of English kids and their moms and some dads as well.  They were all full of Oohs, Ahs and laughs. A great afternoon from all aspects.  


List of some of the inventions at the Design Museum



Design Museum
A walk to the Design Museum to see a history of Kahn’s architecture, Weil’s clocks and designs, and Winning New Designs and Inventions, which included everything from fashion, medical equipment, fantastic cars,  a folding electric bicycle, stand alone materials for clothing designs, and on and on.  Wonderful stuff.  





VW electric car 

Front - isn't it WOW?!


After, I enjoyed a long walk from the museum up to tower bridge and beyond to the Tate Modern Museum along the River Thames.  



Tower bridge

sailing on the Thames River






Then across the Millennium Bridge to the underground and home to my College Hall rooms at the University of London.  After a nice dinner, I went back to my room to pack for Netherlands the next day.
Hurray for London, my favorite city in all the world, and hello to Holland and the Dutch canal boat, the Ahoy.  

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